During the winter, the colours turn more monochrome and many pictures also turn slight blue due to the snow reflecting the sky. Many cameras reads this wrong and end up setting the colours profile to cold.
One way to avoid this is to adjust the profile in your camera manually. An other way is to set the camera in black and white settings. If you have a mirrorless your electronic viewfinder will be black and white as well.
I’ve taken this to a new level by converting one of my cameras to infrared. I’ll give some more details of the actual work involved in a later post. Infrared is a light that the human eye don’t see. The image sensor of a camera is normally filtered to not see this light, but with a little surgery the camera can convert this light to something visible to the human eye. The result is a deep black and white image with a lot of contrasts and some unexpected contrasts.
One morning I was out with my dog and fortunately I brought my camera. As the moon was dipping the horizon and the sun was on its way up, the mist also arose from the close by river. All together it was a magical morning.
The morning can be quite challenging to capture. Especially when parts of the scene is lit. My camera got a in body stabilisation and paired with the right lens with stabilisation it really helps on low light scenes like these. If you don’t have a camera with these features you could use a tripod. These images are captured at 1/40s, f/8 and ISO400.
The weather has been nice for a long time now. Crystal clear nights and some clouds in the horizon during the day. But since the days here up north are pretty short (only 6 hours at the time of writing this post) the temperatures will be creeping downwards. Right now it has stabilised at approximately -18C.
I went out to the local river and the breeze that comes together with the water flowing is extreme. The last rays of sun had just faded and the blue hour started. Mist arose from the river and created a magical, but cold, moment.
During these hours you might be able to catch something special.
It’s been a while now, but I thought you might wanted to see a bit of my latest project. When I swapped out my Canon gear for the new Fuji, one of the lenses I was most exited to get my hands on was the 100-400, witch on a Fuji X-mount equals about 150-600mm.
My first experiment was small birds on a bird feeder. I made one from old branches that were cut of a fallen tree. I wanted to have a natural background so I installed the feeder in my back yard.
Sitting on a little chair in the back yard waiting is a game in it self. It really takes patience, but the birds eventually showed up.
Have you seen those beautiful signatures some put on their photos and maybe tried yourself and failed? In this article I’d like to give you a recipe. As long as you have a computer and a camera, you will manage this.
Of course you could choose to use a computer with a touch screen and a pen and make yourself a signature, but not everybody have a touch interface. So the first thing you do is to find a pen and a paper. If you have a black pen, that’s the best.
Make a hand written signature on your paper as you would on any formal letter. Once you’re satisfied with the results you use your camera to take a photo of your signature. Try to get as good light on it as possible.
There is a handfull of vector services online, but the one that I have had the most luck with is Vectorizer (This article is not sponsored or endorsed by Vectorizer).
You simply load your image up to their online vector editing tool and start tweaking. First you crop your image, then you set the model to “Drawing (Black and white)” , then you adjust the threshold so that the output image will have the signature in one colour and the background in the other. On the left side you see two Color wheels. Click the middle one that represents the collection of light colours and replace it with a completely white one and the same with the dark one to a completely black one.
Then you hit “Vectorize” and then “Download”. The result is a vector file of your signature. So why do you want a vector file you might ask? Well, a vector file is a bunch of coordinates. Coordinates scaled up and down will still be coordinates. Rendered into a raster graphic after rescaling will lead to a much better result than just scaling a raster in the first place. The next thing is that it is a really simple way to get a clean file/signature.
I prefer Photoshop, so where is where you can add this file to Photoshop and get a nice looking signature. You can add this file as a layer in most photo editing softwares supporting layers and vector graphics.
Norway is still affected by Corvid-19 and it is strongly advisable to stay at home or close to your home. Since we live on the countryside its possible to move around a bit, but not too far. My family live in a valley called Orkdal and the hills surrounding this valley is mostly covered in forest and farmland. One evening I was out biking and I came across this beautiful little area with some old trees and rocks. I always bring a camera with me, but my M100 was not capable of capturing all details in those trees.
A couple of days later I went up there again with my big camera (Canon 5Ds) and my 24-70mm lens. I’m really pleased with the result.
Back in 2016 I went on an expedition across the Greenlandic Icecap in a group of 11 people. I will remember this for as long as I live and luckily I have som fantastic images from the expedition as well.
I keep coming back to one specific waterfall close to where I live. Its not the biggest one, but it keeps changing based weather conditions. I often find new aspects of the waterfall. And for some reason I have not posted this image on this page.
Negative space is a effect used to strengthen elements in the frame. You don’t need to use just one colour, but the image above is a typical example where the lack of details in the mist actually draws attention to the two trees.